There is a definite “handmade” feel about The Estelle on High street, opposite Palomino. The back courtyard (including outside dunnies) sports a rustic brick planter box, a door masquerading as a table, potted herbs in recycled containers and real tomato plants.

The short-but-sweet menu is presented in “oh so cute” How and Why books and similar which make for alternate reading material to the usual daily papers.

The coffee is served in gorgeous double handled retro-styled cups and is rich and satisfying. The cups match the sugar bowls (just like nana’s), the vases, the tiles, the paint…you’d think they were made specifically for them, but I understand it was a lucky coincidence.

The menu pays homage to the likes of Gerald’s bar and Handsome Steve’s , featuring a fish of the day, a meat of the day, and a shared plate for two of the day offered at dinner time, with a few tasty entrees.

The breakfast / brunch menu is also a little bit left of centre featuring recently Beetroot cured salmon, brioche croque madame, black pudding and malted onion jam omelette. The beetroot gave the salmon an earthy touch and a great pink colour (not so great for hangovers perhaps?), the brioche toasted into a light golden sandwich with a perfectly fried egg on top.

When we visited for dinner it was a darn hot night. Be warned, the humble vibe goes so far as to eschew aircon. The meat of the day was lamb shanks (it was 36 degrees!), baby snapper was the fish, and the shared plate was steak…I ate from the entrees and JB started with Sydney Rock Oysters and ordered the snapper.

From the entree list I tried the Northcote smoked salami served with lightly pickled cucumber; baby beets with hazelnut praline, goats curd and sherry vinegar; Zucchini Carpaccio, balsamic and parmesan wafer; potatoes roasted in duck fat with garlic and thyme. (I did have to share some of these with JB).

His snapper was served with a fresh fennel and orange salad. He pretty much picked the bones clean, so I think that must have meant it was pretty darn good!

They’re still getting their act together, so the service can be a bit hit ‘n’ miss, but that can only improve.

The menus are so interesting – I am looking forward to going again and again and again…(copies on Flickr)

I’m not a huge fan of “the usual”, nut I really hope The Estelle catches the imagination of enough folk to keep on doing what they are doing, cause I’m loving it.

The Estelle Bar and Kitchen
243 High Sreet
Northcote
9789 4609
Closed Monday, 8am until around 11pm, Sunday 9am start!)

But this weekend, I have a 6 day break from work, and due to Melbourne Gastronome’s review, a hankering to try the pork bun recipe.

So this is what they are supposed to look like according to the foodstyled book.

And this is what they did look like, according to some food savvy bloggers who styled them quite beautifully at a potluck dinner on Saturday night.   (Thanks for the photo Claire)

The recipes is based on the one in David Chang’s book, but I have made some adjustments for Australian measurements, my preferred methods and tinkered with the pork flavour to suit my palate a bit better. A standard Australian tablespoon is 20ml. A US one is 15ml.

Steamed buns
1 x 20ml Tablespoon dried yeast
1.5 cups water (37° Celcius)

Warm bowl of mixer with dough hook fitted by filling with warm tap water and leaving to sit while you measure the water for the dough. Empty bowl, fit to the mixer, pour in water and add yeast. Stir slowly with dough hook until dissolved.

Add
4½ x 20ml tablespoons of sugar
2½ x 20ml spoons of skim milk powder
¾ x 20ml tablespoon of salt
1 x 5 ml teaspoon (Rounded) of baking powder
1 x 5 ml teaspoon of baking soda

Stir slowly with dough hook to combine.

Add 4½ cups plain or bread flour and
drop 3 x 20ml tablespoons of lard (or vegetable shortening if you must) on top.

Turn on to low setting and knead for 8 – 10 mins until it forms a soft, but not sticky ball.

Put into a lightly oiled bowl and sit in a warm place until doubled in size.

Punch the dough down and turn it out on to a board. Cut into half, and then each half into four pieces. Slightly roll each piece and cut in 25g pieces. (recipe made 48 for me). Cover with cling film and leave for 30 mins.

Cut pieces of baking parchment (silicon paper or Glad Bake), one for each piece approx 10cm x 10cm

Flatten a ball and roll it out to an oval about 10cm long using a small rolling pin or piece of dowel (I used a bottle of rosewater). Fold over in half, place on a piece of parchment and let sit for another 30 – 45mins.

Now steam in batches for 10 mins until they are puffed and glossy – don’t crowd the steamer.

Remove parchment and allow to cool. Wrap back in parchment and stack in an airtight container and place in fridge if you’re not using them straight away. or double wrap in freezer wrap to freeze.

Pork

1.5 kg slab skinless pork belly
¼ cup white sugar
¼ cup salt
½ x 5ml teaspoon five spice powder
2 x 20ml tablespoon rice (or sherry) vinegar

Mix salt, sugar and five spice in a small bowl.
Trim pork belly and remove any ribs that are still attached
Rub belly with salt mix and place in small roasting pan, cover with cling wrap and refrigerate for at least 6 hours, but no more than 24.

Heat oven to 230°C Conventional (210°C Fan-forced). Uncover pork and discard any liquid that has collected. Cook belly fat side up for 1 hour, basting with rendered fat halfway. Turn oven down to 120°C Conventional (110°C Fan-forced), baste pork with vinegar and cook for further hour to hour and a half until pork is soft and tender to touch, but not falling apart. Baste as often as you like during this time.

Allow pork to cool, when cool enough to handle, wrap in foil and put in the fridge until it’s thoroughly cooled. This makes it easier to cut. Cut into 1 cm slices that are about 5 cm long.

Reheat to serve (I used a microwave, or you can use a frypan)

To serve

Thinly sliced cucumber, mixed with salt sugar and vinegar for 5 – 10 mins to lightly pickle
Thinly sliced spring onions
Hoisin Sauce

Steam buns, tear open, spread with sauce, add greens and pork.