In Melbourne, a city full of food, and obsessed by coffee, I cook, I eat, I share the good news and the bad.

Little Press: Review

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I’m not sure why I’m surprised really…

For those of us with memories of a George Calombaris with more hair, practically having to beg us to eat his food (in the days of Reserve); it’s a bit of a hard ask to ignore the elephant in the room.

An indulgent day off recently, and a promise of seeing the Tim Burton exhibition on at ACMI without millions of other people, gave me the excuse to try Little Press for brunch.

I like the fit-out for Little Press: I like it’s huge windows which let in lovely southern light, are high enough so you don’t feel like the entire world can see you slacking off with a mid-week brunch.  I like the look of the place, even though the chairs have a strange edge to them which stops them from being really comfortable, but then, that may well be the way they are designed.  The service was fine, better than average, but not as good as some who have perfected the breakfast/brunch trade (always ask for the second coffee order – this is Melbourne!)

The menu was short with 11 options, featured toast ($7), granola and porridge ($10) as the “familiar” breakfast options, and then veered quickly into unknown territory.  Tsoureki ($15)?, Bastourma Jam??, Frouta Epohis Salad ????($12).

Nope – no Greek heritage in me, but the Spanokopita with poached egg ($14.50) and Chicken Crumbed Egg with Bastourma Jam ($8.50) made it onto our table.

Hmm… $8.50?  Darn it!  Now I have to change my whole review.  I was going to say that I shouldn’t have been surprised about feeling underwhelmed….wait a minute.  $8.50 is still quite a lot…hang on… now I really don’t know what to say.

The food, yeh OK, the food.  Both of my companions had the Spanakopita and I wish I had as well.  It looked quite nice, although a bit weird with it’s poached egg sitting jauntily on top.

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The fried Chicken Crumbed Egg was.. well… a single Scotch Egg. On a pile of shredded iceberg.  With a few coriander stalks.  And a dish of really nice “Bastourma Jam” which tasted to me like a tamarind spiced tomato chutney.  I can’t find any reference to Bastourma that isn’t Turkish Air Dried Beef, so if anyone knows what this condiment was, can you please let me know?

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But back to the Egg.  One egg. Coated with sausage mince and fried.  A scotch egg.  Singular.   And look closely boys and girls.  When was the last time you saw a fried food item nestled in a pile of shredded iceberg?

I was disappointed that it was one egg.  The lettuce was just laughable, but at least I didn’t pay $14 for it (which is what I thought it was before checking my notes).  It wasn’t enough for breakfast though the egg was nicely cooked and presented.

Hey George!  Would if have killed you to give me a piece of toast at least!

The coffee was OK, the carrot, apple and ginger juice felt expensive at $8.50 for a standard glass.

So we left the chef (sitting and chatting, not cooking) and the gansters in the corner, and headed off to a fun time at ACMI.

Not hurrying to go back for breakfast.

So – do I think he’s cashing in on his fame by overcharging for breakfast?  Yes, yes I do.  I hear you Gary Mehigan and Fenix, and raise you some shredded lettuce filler.

Who else has been?

The Age check out its wine bar credentials

3AW as a bar and late night snack place

The Broadsheet

Little Press

72 Flinders Street Melbourne

9677 9677

Breakfast Monday to Friday.